4-5:15 p.m.
Sustainable Fashion, Equity, and the Absence of Black Women in Leadership: Bridging the Gap Between Environmental Justice and Social Justice
Nia Allen, Belmont University/Texas Tech University
Fashion has commitment issues with sustainability.
There is a constant conversation about sustainability in fashion. How are we promoting product consumption? Are we greenwashing? What does fast fashion really do to the world? But no one ever talks about sustainable practices as they relate to equity.
Where are all the Black women at the table? It is no secret that luxury fashion brands have had issues with representation, but what happens when the number is 0? According to a recent report conducted by the British Fashion Council in 2023, less than 1% of creative directors for luxury fashion powerhouses were minority women but none were Black (Fashion Minority Alliance, 2023).
Black women are used as muses for luxury fashions powerhouses, they account for almost 20% of the sales but are counted out continuously for contingency in C-Suite level roles at these brands (Joseph, 2024).
This research will contribute to the emerging discourse on “intersectional sustainability,” urging the fashion industry to rethink its approach to sustainability by incorporating racial and gender equity into the conversation. It will provide actionable recommendations for luxury fashion brands to diversify their leadership teams and align their sustainability goals with the needs and values of the communities they impact most. By including Black women in decision-making processes, the fashion industry can make more meaningful progress toward both environmental and social sustainability.
Mainstream or Radical: Mapping Sociopolitical Consciousness in the Digital Fashion Audience via AI Social Listening
YeSeung Lee, University of Westminster
Digital fashion communities are often perceived as radical challengers of mainstream fashion, embodying the ethos of ‘digital utopianism’ which views technology as a liberating force for decentralization and democracy. These communities are depicted as rejecting industry hierarchies and aligning with anti-capitalist and anti-consumerist principles. This empirical study investigates whether these communities truly embody such revolutionary ideals by evaluating social media evidence gathered through an AI social listening platform. Despite the lofty rhetoric, the findings reveal that the social media discourse of digital fashion communities frequently lacks depth, relying on superficial slogans and buzzwords. Their attitudes are neither radical nor revolutionary, primarily reinforcing existing fashion hierarchies and sustaining core capitalist and consumerist frameworks. This study calls for a critical reassessment of the perceived radicalism of digital fashion communities and emphasizes the importance of genuine debate and education.
Nike and Afrofuturism: Imagining a Future That Could Be
Dominique Norman, Marymount Manhattan College
From the Jumpman to the athlete as activist, how has Nike contributed to Afrofuturism through their marketing and advertising? Using examples of original Nike posters from the late 80s and early 90s depicting imagined realities such as an all-Black Supreme Court or superhero-esque sports stars, juxtaposing with modern issues facing Black consumers like creative ownership and representation, this presentation will challenge us to consider Afrofuturism as a marketing tool within the messaging and styling of a fashion, sportswear, and lifestyle brand that has held a special appeal for Black consumers. Through collaborations with artists and innovators such as Spike Lee and Little Richard, to standing behind Colin Kaepernick and Serena Williams as they navigate racial hierarchies and expectations of the public eye, the company has pivoted from the fantastical depictions of Afrofuturism to centering the activist-as-superhero. Nike advertisements show the consumer what they can potentially accomplish in Nike, not by granting superhuman abilities by simply sporting the swoosh, but by empowering the consumer to realize their potential and have the support — physically and figuratively — of the Nike brand. This presentation will examine Afro-Futurism in the context of fashion history and visual culture to investigate a future that never was to a future that could be.
Contemporary Queer Fashion Media as Personal Liberations: Qwear, Digital Media, and Twenty-First Century Queer Fashion Shows
Kelly L. Reddy-Best and Megan Romans, Iowa State University
In the 21st century, a growing number of fashion brands and media platforms are centering queer and trans communities. Among these is Qwear, a pioneering queer-focused fashion media outlet that explores the intersections of fashion, style, and queer and trans identities. In this research, I examine Qwear’s groundbreaking role in reshaping narratives around style, identity, and community through a case study approach, utilizing oral histories and other primary sources.
I explore how Qwear challenges traditional fashion industry norms by centering the intersection of queer fashion and well-being. That is, Qwear empowers its models to move freely and choose their participation in fashion shows, fostering an inclusive and non-hierarchical environment. Beyond showcasing style, I highlight how Qwear provides a vital digital space for empowerment, enabling individuals to explore, celebrate, and redefine their relationship with fashion.
Founded by Sonny Oram as part of a personal journey of healing through clothing, Qwear exemplifies fashion’s transformative potential as a medium for self-discovery, activism, and solidarity. Through its commitment to inclusive representation and its focus on community well-being, Qwear has become a pivotal force in shaping queer and trans fashion media and products. I argue that platforms like Qwear play an essential role in cultivating a more inclusive, diverse, and liberated vision for 21st-century fashion history.